Following the thread of our In Vogue: The 1990s podcast, we’re closing out the yr and heading into the brand new one with a sequence of newly digitized archival reveals from the last decade that vogue can’t—and received’t—let go of. Prada’s fall 1996 ready-to-wear assortment was introduced on March 8, 1996, in Milan.
The influence of Miuccia Prada’s “pretty-ugly” assortment of spring 1996, with its “off” colours (avocado, brown, ochre) and geometric patterns, each seemingly impressed by Seventies home equipment and dishware, lasted for greater than a season. In line with stories on the time, so-called unhealthy style or anti-fashion was on the menu in all places six months later. Prada included.
The autumn 1996 Prada present reads like a coda to the one which got here earlier than it. The palette was extra somber; one may say autumnal. Navy, grey, and wine have been balanced by brown, mustard, and lilac. Daring summary motifs have been again in an enormous manner too.
There was newness, noticed Vogue, within the lengthy and slender silhouette; slim skirts hit under the knee, and there have been cigarette pants within the combine. Ideologically, Prada’s fall and spring 1996 collections have been consistent with the tendency, famous by the journal, of “each hip designer placing an ironic spin on classicism.”
Are peacoats and cashmere sweaters vogue? Are “ugly” garments anti-fashion? These have been the sorts of questions journalists have been posing, and Mrs. Prada stored them guessing. The autumn present opened with a trad pantsuit, sweaters, and trousers, nothing to jot down dwelling about, or…? The patterned items have been actually “editorial.” The temper was extra refined and “grownup” than that of the spring present, till the finale of slip attire. None of those had any BUtterfield 8 sizzle. Although some have been rendered in a shade of lilac just like that of the princess-line Prada costume Uma Thurman wore to the Oscars earlier within the yr, the fashions didn’t mission star energy, however waif energy.
Although Prada revisited a few of fall 1996’s distinct motifs in 2010 (a lot prematurely of the late 2010s reissue fad, it must be famous), this assortment is most memorable for its laddered knit tights and sell-out footwear: antiqued leather-based Mary Janes with stacked heels and floral appliques. They have been both terribly fairly or fairly horrible, and as such they in some way managed in that inimitable Prada method to destabilize stereotypes and assumptions about propriety, class, gender, and sweetness.