PARIS Males’s Style Week has simply ended, and Paris Couture Week is about to start out. In a modified and altering world, the world’s vogue capitals have needed to modify too. Gone are the runway walks of years previous, of applause and pageantry, for all needed to make do with vogue movies whereas their viewers clapped from their screens. We’re seeing now how three family names in luxurious — Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Dior Homme — are deciphering our new lives.
This new Dior man for 2021 is good-looking, well-dressed, and creative. He’s additionally wearing a go well with with pajama piping as a result of he most likely works from dwelling.
Both approach, the silhouettes for this yr for menswear is decidedly extra relaxed, with an enviable slouch in trousers and jackets that make one sigh with reduction.
It’s positively nonetheless luxurious: the present opens with a gold-embroidered black cashmere coat, with an accompanying video on the Dior web site displaying the way it was made on the Vermont ateliers in Paris. The look, then, is relaxed bohemian opulence. The coat was impressed by the Rosella, a high fashion gown designed by Marc Bohan (a Dior designer who changed Yves Saint Laurent, and a designer to icons Princess Grace of Monaco and Sophia Loren).
For this season, Dior’s Inventive Director Kim Jones collaborated with Scottish-born, Trinidad-based artist Peter Doig. Whereas a big chunk of the gathering is both in neutrals like beige and grey, Mr. Doig’s influences are seen in acid tones like pink and orange, painted with examples from his work in figurative artwork.
Watch the present right here: https://www.dior.com/en_int/mens-fashion/shows/winter-2021-2022-mens-show
The silhouettes of Dior and Hermès are fairly related, all the way down to the slouchy using pants tucked into boots. However whereas Dior veers in the direction of bohemian extra, the choices of Hermès are soberly educational. Its presentation was shot on the Mobilier Nationwide in Paris (a cultural workplace that takes care of state furnishings and manages Gobelins and Beauvais). There’s an enormous use of tartans and protected taupe this assortment, maybe teasing a pattern for this season.
Watch the present right here: https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/279872-men-fashion-show-autumn-winter-2021/
We’ve saved the most effective for final: Louis Vuitton’s Inventive Director Virgil Abloh made a 15-minute vogue movie spectacle centered round an artwork heist. That is not at all thrilling or action-packed. Louis Vuitton’s web site says, “The efficiency revolves across the figurative notion of the artwork heist that’s the artwork world’s theft and re-appropriation of foundations of cultural heritage.”
The movie is each a vogue present and a commentary on racial politics. The movie is instantly influenced by African-American author James Baldwin’s essay “Stranger within the Village.”
For developments, we noticed the return of a 2000s favourite, the metallic Louis Vuitton Miroir; mirrored as effectively in fits of silver. There are baggage formed like airplanes, a lemon yellow duffel, but additionally tartans and stripes. That ought to set you up for this yr.
Nonetheless: what strikes a viewer within the movie aren’t fairly the garments, however the performances by rappers Saul Williams, Yasiin Bey (a.ok.a. Mos Def), and poet Kai Isaiah Jamal. Saul William takes a stroll within the runway with an enormous black coat with airplanes marking the closures (whereas different males behind him look decidedly Sixties — wearing fashions through the rise of the civil rights motion). Whereas he walks, a voice says, “Make house for me… make it as much as me.” Later within the video, these phrases had been spoken: “Those that burn, these to the hearth, and the numerous unnamed.” Whereas the message is well timed, does it hinder or assist that the message is seen via the lens of luxurious vogue? “Stranger within the Village” reads, “The trend of the disesteemed is personally fruitless, however it is usually completely inevitable: the trend, so usually discounted, so little understood even among the many folks whose each day bread it’s, is among the issues that makes historical past.”
Watch it right here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV_QoQD_nrA . — Joseph L. Garcia