Monika Tilley, a designer of racy swimsuits that glistened from the covers of Sports activities Illustrated journal on fashions like Christie Brinkley and Cheryl Tiegs and a pioneer of activewear and loungewear, died on Dec. 23 in Manhattan. She was 86.
Her daughter, Mona Tilley, introduced the loss of life in January. She mentioned her mom died in a hospital after having a number of strokes.
Ms. Tilley was not a reputation designer like Invoice Blass or Calvin Klein; she was an business expertise identified for her work for Anne Cole, Anne Klein, White Stag and different corporations, designing what would turn out to be a uniquely American fashion of dressing. She created a line for Caitlyn Jenner when she was a monitor star within the Seventies, and collaborated with Ms. Brinkley on a line of swimwear in 1984. For the Winter Olympic Video games in 1980 and 1984, she designed the parade uniforms for the American groups.
With an athletic construct — she was an knowledgeable skier — and a deep, gravelly voice, the Austrian-born Ms. Tilley was an imposing and good-looking determine. “However she had a sparkle; you by no means knew if she was making a bit enjoyable,” mentioned Jule Campbell, the longtime editor of Sports activities Illustrated’s swimwear points, who put a lot of Ms. Tilley’s fits on her covers. “Her swimwear designs have been provocative for his or her time.”
Together with Norma Kamali, who designed the red one-piece made memorable by Farrah Fawcett, Ms. Tilley was emblematic of the “sexification of swimwear within the Seventies,” mentioned Eric Wilson, a veteran style reporter.
Ms. Tilley and Ms. Kamali “mixed a way of athleticism with an open embrace of intercourse attraction in a means that may affect mainstream swimwear types excess of Rudi Gernreich did a decade earlier, when he shocked the style world with the breast-revealing monokini,” Mr. Wilson mentioned. “That was only a blip of immodesty in comparison with the impression of Monika’s fishnet swimsuits — that left little to the creativeness a few lady’s anatomy — on loosening client tastes and making the stuff of schoolboy fantasies and dorm-room posters for many years.”
The nipple-baring white mesh swimsuit Mr. Wilson referred to, worn by Ms. Tiegs within the 1978 difficulty, was maybe probably the most well-known Sports activities Illustrated swimsuit picture of all time, mentioned Terry McDonell, editor of Sports activities Illustrated from 2002 to 2012. “Each swimsuit difficulty drew threats of cancellation and howls of objection — first from moralists after which from feminists — and this picture was supercharged in that sense,” Mr. McDonell mentioned.
It’s now in the permanent collection of the Costume Institute on the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork.
Ms. Tilley typically added saucy touches to her bathing fits, just like the bits of lace on one other white one-piece swimsuit that Ms. Tiegs wore for a Sports activities Illustrated cowl in 1983, made largely see-through by a dunking within the waterfall behind her.
“She was Viennese, in any case,” mentioned the British designer Patricia Underwood, a longtime buddy of Ms. Tilley’s. “In Austria they’re superb at fur coats, loden and lingerie.”
Monika Theresia Nowotny was born on July 25, 1934, in Vienna. Her father, Franz Nowotny, labored within the division of agriculture; her mom, Margarete (Kinateder) Nowotny, taught English and bodily training.
Monika earned a grasp’s diploma from the Vienna Academy of Wonderful arts, an training her father allowed her to pursue provided that he may verify in along with her lecturers every day. (He didn’t imagine artwork was a viable profession path.)
She and Merten Arthur Tilley, an American she met when he was finding out enterprise in Vienna, married on the Hofburg Palais there in 1957, after which they settled in Forest Hills, Queens.
At first Ms. Tilley labored as an illustrator at Harper’s Bazaar. She was quickly employed as a designer of youngsters’s put on at Anne Cole. She would go on to design swimwear, sportswear and loungewear at Anne Klein and different corporations.
Interviewed by The New York Times in 1964, Ms. Tilley, on the time a 29-year-old skiwear designer for White Stag, was requested to foretell which seems to be at Innsbruck, Austria, the place the Olympic Video games have been held that yr, would turn out to be developments. She was bullish on pompom hats and stretch pants.
In 1976, The Times noted: “Designing sportswear is Miss Tilley’s life work, and she or he participates in most of the sports activities for which she designs garments. The tennis growth has provoked a whole lot of crimes within the identify of style, and her purpose is to return the fundamental class to the sport, utilizing trendy materials.”
Ms. Tilley was additionally, because the designer Stan Herman mentioned, “a power in loungewear,” a class newly minted within the Seventies for girls who needed to look sharp at work however really feel snug after they acquired residence. It marked the tip of the housedress period, as Mr. Herman, additionally a power in that style, identified.
“Liz Claiborne was going to decorate the brand new lady at work, and we have been going to decorate her at residence,” he mentioned. “Monika did a really sporty form of loungewear: plenty of notched collars and housecoats that regarded like males’s shirts.”
Within the late Eighties, Ms. Tilley’s signature line of loungewear for Vassarette featured ankle-length sweaters in daring stripes worn over monochromatic tops and leggings, types that may not be misplaced at present.
Mr. Herman recalled that Ms. Tilley was as soon as memorialized in a window at Lord & Taylor, in a scene that includes a Monika Tilley model — her personal doppelgänger — sketching at a desk and looking out very official.
Along with her daughter, Ms. Tilley is survived by her son, Martin, and her brother, Thomas Nowotny. Her marriage to Mr. Tilley resulted in divorce.
Ms. Tilley was a longtime board member of the Council of Trend Designers of America, the commerce group began in 1962 to advertise American style. She based the CFDA Scholarship Program in 1996 and remained intently concerned in its growth.
“She was an unsung hero” within the group, mentioned Lisa Smilor, the council’s government vp. “The multitude of design college students that the CFDA has awarded scholarships to might not know her identify or legacy. However, she had a constructive impression on their futures.”