Trend is in a state of flux, even the usually even-keel males’s put on class. The Fall/Winter 2021-2022 collections introduced by influential labels like Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Isabel Marant, in addition to those who fly below the mainstream radar like Taakk and Valette, made clear that designers are balancing the need for escapism by way of vogue with the necessity for practicality and luxury.
Whereas there’s no telling what is going to translate to the lives of males come fall throughout this unpredictable time, a number of new themes emerged as tendencies to look at. From daring coloration and regal ornamentation, to a brand new twist on knits, these eight tendencies present sufficient runway for shoppers to undertake and adapt to their very own type and wishes.
There’s energy behind carrying a singular and impactful coloration like pure purple. Although the colour has been a mainstay in ladies’s collections because the start of the 2017 Ladies’s March and subsequent #MeToo motion, the colour is just starting to affect males’s and unisex kinds as a monochromatic assertion.
Monochromatic, nevertheless, doesn’t imply monotonous. The execution of head-to-toe purple ensembles was various. Han Kjobenhavn and Alyx channeled the eighties with purple leather-based and jarring silhouettes, whereas a splash of purple up to date Isabel Marant’s retro monitor swimsuit.
The colour additionally made a powerful assertion in additional classical items, together with KB Hong’s minimalist jacket and matching trousers and Lemaire’s suiting that toed the road of workwear. Casablanca and Valette each opted for purple suiting with a subversive twist, styling the fits with black lace and sheer tops.
Lengthy earlier than the lads of Netflix phenomenon “Bridgerton” heated up the screens of cooped-up watchers this winter, designers presciently captured the air of aristocracy and fancy gown that’s trending in males’s put on. Although prospers like ruffles, pastels and pearls are more and more current in males’s collections, the path for F/W 21-22 is decidedly romantic and opulent, cancelling out gender norms completely.
Etro enriched its assortment with velvet chartreuse blazers and matching knits. Dior Homme experimented with army silhouettes and colourful fur coats.
Taakk showcased reserved opulence with a easy high-collar shirt and pleated wide-leg lavender trousers. Exaggerated shapes had been carried all through Angus Chiang’s assortment, in addition to the usage of crystal brooches and colourful, high-shine silks. Silk lapels and brooches had been a focus for ERL.
Others broke free from conventional male silhouettes. Arturo Obegero introduced strapless velvet jumpsuits and outsized ruffle scarves that draped across the physique like a ribbon on a gift. Collar bones had been the ‘It’ accent in GMBH’s assortment, which included off-the-shoulder blazers trimmed with fake fur.
Brioni wowed with a gold tuxedo that was extra technical than the typical gilt swimsuit. In an interview with Vogue, Brioni design director Norbert Stumpfl described how pure gold was layered onto the silk by way of electromagnetic wave know-how throughout the spinning stage. The outcome was a radiant metallic material that’s softer than most comparable textiles like Lurex, he mentioned.
The elevated hoodie for F/W 21-22 shouldn’t be spun with gold, however it’s crafted with creativity and character. Although many trend forecasts have pointed to a slicker, extra polished future for loungewear, parts like dye results and branding proceed to crop up in designer hoodies.
Youngsters of the Discordance channeled a psychedelic outside look with its hoodies, whereas David Catalan opted for pure colorways that complement its easy workwear-inspired denim. Etudes took an entire totally different path by including cutouts to the cozy primary.
Others, like Officine Generale, paired hoodies with relaxed suiting, alluding to the informal state that workplace apparel could embrace throughout the fall.
After a chaotic and divisive yr like 2020, vogue that makes a literal assertion was sure to make it onto the catwalk in 2021. The messages delivered, nevertheless, had been calming and uplifting. Uniforme reminded individuals to “decelerate” with its cape. Walter Van Beirendonck expressed hope with collage-like tops.
Even Vetements, which tends to favor shock worth over patriotic sentiments, introduced T-shirts with the nationwide motto of France: “Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité.”
Knits for fall should not newsworthy, however the inflated cable knits, deconstructed sweaters and total sense of creativity seen in F/W 21-22 knits is.
The splayed collar on Uniforme’s short-sleeve sweater and Hermes’s youthful half-zip sweater introduced ribbed knits in a recent method that didn’t really feel like one other late ’90s or early ’00s homage. Kolor managed to make cardigans with uneven hems, and twisted and deconstructed cable knit sweaters look traditional with its line of loose-fit corduroy trousers and wool jackets.
Louis Vuitton and Etude pumped up the quantity of their knit methods, whereas Alanui and Greg Lauren experimented with knits with an artisanal, heirloom feel and appear.
A lot has been mentioned about millennials’ exodus from main cities and their newfound style for old-timey hobbies like bread-baking throughout the pandemic. Parts of the quieter life they favor are filtering into vogue as effectively. The traditional nation aesthetic—a contact rural, a contact English nation—was seen throughout males’s collections by way of the subtle coloration combos of hunter inexperienced and beige, in addition to conventional Honest Isle motifs.
Tod’s was among the many manufacturers that opted for Barbour-like jackets with deep practical pockets. Hermes popped its shearling jacket with an outsized collar for heat and vogue. Junya Watanabe reworked outdoor apparel but stored the clothes wearable for on a regular basis use. Cardigans had been elongated with quilted panels. A collaboration with Carhartt revived the workwear model’s core canvas jacket into a comfortable type assertion.
Capes and ponchos by manufacturers like Ambush, Bluemarble and Z Zenga added drama and performance to the escapist theme.
Males’s vogue has been anticipating a return to minimalism for a while. Pared-down suiting was on deck final spring previous to the pandemic and the Matrix-style leather jackets on monitor for final fall didn’t see as a lot motion as anticipated as individuals continued to remain dwelling. However designers stay bullish about minimalism for Fall/Winter 21-22.
The general strategy to the simplistic development, nevertheless, smacks of futuristic movies. Easy leather-based surfaces, just like the leather-based trench coats by Fendi, and Vetements’ cloak-like coat gown, have a formidably cool vibe.
Jil Sander’s collar-less blazer is medical, but it surely frames the theme’s must-have merchandise—turtlenecks—completely. The neckline takes on a protecting aspect in Hed Mayner’s assortment. It peeks from the collar of Wooyoungmi’s fuss-free matching workwear units as effectively.
Taakk, in the meantime, makes a powerful case for a silver ombre jumpsuit with minimal pocketing and closures.
An amazing variety of males’s manufacturers favored a method that was one-part streetwear and one-part outdoor adventurist. Grounded in colourful puffer coats—some with novelty coloration blocking—and in exaggerated shapes, the development evokes a playful, geeky vibe and serves as reminder that vogue will be each enjoyable and practical.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro mixed two puffer jackets into one—a glance hybrid look that was replicated in a baseball-meets-bucket hat. Kolor’s jewel-tone nylon layering items added a pop of modernity to tweed coats. Juun J blew up proportions with large puffer coats and cargo pants that puddled generously over all-terrain footwear.
Loewe summed up this aesthetic in a unusual picture presentation for its F/W 21-22 equipment that depicts fashions loaded up with a number of hats, scarves, socks and baggage all within the title of preparedness.